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Archive for May, 2009

ISSF Target 10M Air Pistol

May 4th, 2009 No comments
Dimensions
Ring Diameter Color
10 11.5 mm (±0.1 mm Black
9 27.5 mm (±0.2 mm) Black
8 43.5 mm (±0.2 mm) Black
7 59.5 mm (±0.5 mm) Black
6 75.5 mm (±0.5 mm)) White
5 91.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
4 107.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
3 123.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
2 139.5 mm (±0.5 mm White
1 155.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White

Minimum visible size of target card: width: 170mm height: 170mm

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ISSF Target 10M Air Pistol

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ISSF Target 10M Air Pistol

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ISSF Target 10M Air Pistol

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Categories: Study Tags: , , ,

ISSF Target 10M Air Rifle

May 3rd, 2009 1 comment

Dimensions
Ring Diameter Color
10 11.5 mm (±0.1 mm Black
9 27.5 mm (±0.2 mm) Black
8 43.5 mm (±0.2 mm) Black
7 59.5 mm (±0.5 mm) Black
6 75.5 mm (±0.5 mm)) White
5 91.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
4 107.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
3 123.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White
2 139.5 mm (±0.5 mm White
1 155.5 mm (±0.5 mm) White

Minimum visible size of target card: width: 170mm height: 170mm

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ISSF Target 10M Air Rifle

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ISSF Target 10M Air Rifle

Read more…

Categories: Study Tags: , , ,

8 Tips For Better Shooting For Beginners

May 2nd, 2009 No comments

Before you begin – Select a bow that fits you. It is best to get an experienced archer to help you select your first bow. No matter what type of bow you choose, you want one that is the correct draw length and draw weight for you.

I like to start people out with recurve bows. If you can shoot a recurve you can shoot a compound bow, but not necessarily the other way around. It’s kind of like learning to ride a motorcycle. It helps if you already know how to ride a bicycle.

Here are 8 tips for better shooting:

1. Grip (Bow Hand) – The main thing here is that you want a loose grip. If you are right handed, you will hold the bow in your left hand and vice versa. Form a V with your thumb and index finger. Now allow the bow handle to rest deep in the V and lightly wrap your thumb and fingers around the handle. Curve your fingers so they are not sticking out in the way of the arrow. You need a slight bend in the elbow of your grip hand. Do not lock your elbow.

2. Grip (String Hand) – There is more than one grip that works, but I teach two fingers on the string below the arrow nock and one finger on the string above the knock. This is of course if you are shooting without the aid of a release. I do not recommend a release for beginners. Learn the basics first. Make sure your pinky stays back out of the way. You can use your thumb to hold it down. Look at your fingers…You will want the string to come across your fingers half way between the tips and the first joint. Many people use too much of their finger on the string which prevents a smooth release. As you begin to draw the bow, you will want to keep your fingers in the same position on the string. A common problem is that people curl their fingers as they draw the bow string. This causes the arrow to come off the rest.

3. Drawing the Bow – As you draw the bowstring, your elbow on your string hand should be pointed directly out away from your body and parallel to the ground. I always take in a breath as I draw.

4. Anchor Point – As you reach full draw, there will be a spot on your face where the string naturally comes to. I place my finger against the corner of my mouth. Every time I draw, I go to this same spot. This ensures consistency in my draw length. Find an anchor point that works for you. Once at my anchor point, I hold my breath momentarily.

5. Relax – Try to relax as much as possible. The more uptight you are the more likely you are to jerk as you release. A smooth release is essential to accuracy.

6. Aim – Again, there are different methods that work for different folks. I close one eye and look down the arrow at my target. Some people shoot with both eyes open. Either way, you should really focus on your target, mentally visualizing where you want the arrow to go. Pick out a specific spot and stare a hole through it. Once you are at full draw, do not hold your arrow for more than about 3 seconds. The longer you hold your bow at full draw, the more you will shake and the less accurate you will be. One to two seconds is plenty of time to take aim. By the same token, do not rush your shot.

7. Release – Allow your string fingers to relax. No sudden release is required. As you release, let out your breath. Relax.

8. Follow Through – This is very important as with most sports. Do NOT drop your hand. It is a common tendency for archers to drop their bow hand in an effort to see over or around the bow to watch their arrow strike the target. Concentrate on the target and where you want the arrow to strike, not so much the flight of the arrow. Only after your arrow strikes the target should you drop your bow hand. If you drop your bow hand even slightly in an effort to watch your arrow, your arrow will miss the target low.

Make sure if you are shooting at a range or with other people that all is clear before you go retrieve your arrows. Have fun out there, and be safe!

Categories: Study Tags: ,

Clay Pigeon Shooting Tips For Newer

May 1st, 2009 No comments

I have now been shooting for a little over eighteen months, not long in the scheme of things. During that time however, I have kept my eyes and ears open and have taken lessons with some of the top shots in the country such as Mickey Rouse, Stuart Clarke and Carl Bloxham, as well as Ed Solomons.

The main point that is always stressed by all instructors is without doubt how you should set yourself up for the target. Two main points are firstly Gun fit, followed by reading the target and setting up correctly. Gun fit is vital because unless your gun fits you perfectly you will struggle to consistently hit targets. Your eye needs to naturally run up the rib of the barrel, and if it is high or low from this point you will forever shoot over or under the target. Any good gun shop will be able to assess your gun for you and make any necessary adjustments you require.

The next point that many shooters tend to become blasé about after a while is correctly reading each target. It is probably the most important part of the shot as everything depends upon getting this part right.

Firstly you need to look at the target and ask where is the trap and where does the clay land. This will give you an approximate range. Next, where is the target easiest to kill, sometimes an edge on target will turn to show you a face later in its flight thus making it easier to kill at that point. For each target, look to see where your eye first picks up the clay, then decide upon your kill point and set your body facing towards the kill point, 60% of your weight on your front leg. Then wind your body back to the trap to your gun start point which will mostly be a little after you first catch sight of the clay. Then take your eyes back from the gun to the pick up point.

The point that you choose as the gun start point will vary from target to target as well as depending upon your shooting method, be it coming from behind, constant lead etc, but fundamentally the technique is the same for everyone. Even though it may not look like it to you, all the best shots go through the same set up process as we do, it is just subconscious second nature to them.

Once you call pull, pick up the clay with your eyes, which will swing through with the gun naturally tracking the clay. Stare at the clay, not the lead or your gun. At the kill point squeeze the trigger making sure to keep the gun moving as you swing through the shot. Watch the clay break, it is very important.

Most misses are down to not paying attention to the basics, make sure that your gun fits, and that if you shoot “gun down” that your mount is consistent. Many people shoot “gun up” in order to minimise any possible errors with “gun down” mount. Once your gun mount is sorted, the next most common problem is with correctly reading each target, and correctly setting up a compromise stance for a tricky pair. This I am assured comes with time, but learning from the best is a great way of becoming alert to everything that is required in order to shoot at the top level.

Quite often we make an easy shot hard for ourselves by reading the target incorrectly and then setting up badly for it. With more thought and application a seemingly hard target can be made far easier just by addressing it correctly. We have all had targets that we thought we would struggle with before we entered the cage, but then hit without any trouble, could it be that on that occasion we happened to be set up in the perfect place thus making it easy for ourselves. The same thing applies when we miss seemingly easy targets, did we make it too difficult by setting up badly?

It is my belief that by concentrating on reading each target and then considering the three critical points of the shot, pick up, gun start and kill point, we can add significantly to our shooting scores.

This routine will also help greatly with consistency.

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